Serpa. A city inhabited since ancient times, it had a strong Roman and Arab influence. It was conquered from the Moors in 1166, but only in 1295 was it definitively taken by King Dinis, who ordered it to be surrounded by a set of walls. Due to its location near the border, it was the site of numerous battles and was destroyed several times throughout history.

We begin our journey here, in this city full of history. We will travel through the Riverside Villages of Alqueva, which will take us to the municipality of Portel.

Upon arriving in Serpa, we start by circling the walls until we reach the Beja Gate. Next to it stands the Aqueduct, built at the end of the 17th century under the patronage of D. Francisco de Melo, a prominent figure in the local nobility. The location is very beautiful and one of the most characteristic sights of the city.

We enter the walls through the Beja Gate, continue to the center, and park near the Praça da República. At this location, the imposing clock tower immediately catches the eye. We climb the stairs to reach a small square, where the Church of Santa Maria is located, and next to it, we find the entrance to the Castle.

Back at Praça da República, we find a spacious area amidst the narrow streets of Serpa’s old town, where we can sit at a café terrace and relax a bit before continuing our journey. Nearby, you can visit the Clock Museum, the only one of its kind on the Iberian Peninsula.

We leave Serpa, but before heading to the first riverside village on our list, we decide to visit the Hermitage of Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe, which is very close, about 2 km away on Alto de São Gens. Upon reaching the top, we are mesmerized by the view over the Alentejo plains, with the beautiful hermitage, well-maintained and painted in immaculate white.

We continue our journey towards the first riverside village on our list – Mina da Orada, taking the road towards Brinches. Along the way, we wonder what this village will be like. We know it’s very small and that nearby there’s an abandoned magnetite mine, which was closed in 1971 and has since become flooded.

We pass Brinches and continue towards Orada. Suddenly, with no signs indicating it, we spot a few houses on our left – we’ve arrived at Mina da Orada. It is undoubtedly the smallest riverside village, with no paved streets, which is already rare in this region. We pass by a café and continue along the dirt road, traveling about 200 meters before we reach the mine.

It’s a stunning location! The vast crater of the mine has transformed into a large lake with beautiful colors. Birds fly in flocks above the water, echoing off the high walls of the old mine. The entire site is fenced off to prevent anyone from falling in; it’s a beautiful place but commands a certain respect. At the only access point to the water, the gate is closed, with several signs prohibiting swimming, though it doesn’t stop people from diving in, despite the restrictions.

We return to the village and notice something curious – a sign indicating “Mina da Orada.” We then realize that this was the main entrance to the village, a dirt path, rather than the paved road we arrived on.

We now head towards the next village: Pedrógão. Once we reach the paved road, we take the route coming from Moura, and after about 1 km, on the left side of the road, we spot the Hermitage of Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres.

Shortly after, we cross the bridge over the Guadiana, which is now the reservoir of the Pedrógão dam, part of the Alqueva project and working in conjunction with it.

Pedrógão is a charming Alentejan village. In the center, we find the Church of Santa Maria (Igreja Matriz) and the beautiful Chapel of São Francisco side by side.

Across from the parish council, there is a small garden that provides good shade on hot days, making it a place for socializing among the village residents. As a suggestion, you can have lunch in Pedrogão before continuing your journey.

Next village: Marmelar. On the Moura – Vidigueira road, we find a sign to the right indicating Marmelar. We drive for 7 km and arrive at the village. Here, you’ll find the Church of Santa Brígida, located next to the primary school, on one of the side streets to the right of the main road that runs through the village. Beautiful and well-maintained, as has been the case with many of the churches and chapels we’ve visited along our journey. It’s commendable that our heritage is being preserved.

We continue on to Vidigueira, a town known for its fine wines, and closely linked to the name of Vasco da Gama, who was named Count of Vidigueira in 1519 by King Manuel I. The remains of Vasco da Gama were buried in Vidigueira between 1539 and 1880, when they were transferred to the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon.

You can visit the ruins of the castle, of which only the keep remains, as well as the Church of Mercy. The Clock Tower can also be seen from various points in the town, as it stands out above the rest of the buildings.

Near Vidigueira is Vila de Frades, the birthplace of the writer Fialho de Almeida. Close by, you can visit the Roman ruins of São Cucufate, dating back to the 1st century AD, a must-see location.

Next, we drive along the IP2 highway towards Portel.

The seat of the municipality, the town of Portel was founded in 1261. Located between Évora and Beja, between the Alentejo plains and the mountains, Portel boasts a majestic castle that dominates the landscape.

Head towards the town center and visit the Parish Church, then make your way up to the castle, more specifically to Praça D. Nuno Álvares Pereira, where a statue of him on horseback stands. Nearby, you will find the Town Hall, the Church of Mercy (Igreja da Misericórdia), and next to it, the entrance to the castle area.

Visiting the Castle, climbing the walls, and taking in the view – the village and the surrounding fields – is definitely worth it. You can take some beautiful photos here.

Finally, we will visit the village of Monte do Trigo, which is just 10 km away.

We immediately feel welcome when, upon exiting the IP2, we arrive at the roundabout at the village entrance. The white and blue signs greet visitors.

In the center, the beautiful Parish Church of São Julião, built in the mid-20th century, has distinctive features with stone columns, which makes it different from all the other churches we visited during the day.

A beautiful final image for a pleasant walk through the riverside villages of Alqueva.

Nuno Franco
Junho/2011