We start our journey in Reguengos de Monsaraz, one of the fastest-growing towns in the region due to its privileged location near the Alqueva dam and excellent road access from Lisbon.

We set off early as it promises to be a long day.

Leaving Reguengos, we head to São Pedro do Corval, home to the largest concentration of clay artisans in Portugal, with around 35 pottery workshops.

This peaceful village is perfect for a quick roadside stop to pick up souvenirs—there’s no shortage of shops.

We get back on the road toward Monsaraz and take a small detour at the first roundabout on the left to visit the Lovers’ Rock (Rocha dos Namorados).

Back on the road, we head toward Monsaraz and take a small detour at the first roundabout to visit the Lovers’ Rock. This rock is linked to a pagan fertility ritual, where single girls toss a stone onto it to see how long they’ll have to wait to marry—the stone falling to the ground means another year of waiting (photo on the right).

Continuing along, we pass by the Antas do Olival da Pega, monuments built between the 4th and 3rd millennia BC, evidence of human settlement in the region since prehistoric times.

We continue our journey and catch sight of the walled village of Monsaraz rising above the Alentejo plains. It’s a stunning view, perfect for photographs. We pass through Telheiro, a small village at the foot of the hill on which Monsaraz stands, and pause briefly to admire the fountain built in 1723.

We then ascend to Monsaraz, where the view takes our breath away. We park at the entrance of the village in a small parking area, as driving inside the village is reserved for residents. The panorama is magnificent, offering sights of the Alqueva reservoir, several nearby villages, and, in the distance, Spain.

We enter Monsaraz through the Vila Gate. The streets are paved with schist, the houses are painted white, and our visit begins. We turn onto the first street on the left and find several local craft shops.

We follow the cobbled street, from where we can see the Porta da Cisterna, and continue to the village center, where we find the Pelourinho and the Church of Santa Maria da Lagoa, whose current structure dates back to the 16th century.

Next to the church is the Paços da Audiência building, the oldest public-use building in the village.

The route continues to the castle. Climbing the iron stairs to the top of the walls near the keep, we find the bullring surrounded by fortifications and enjoy a panoramic view in every direction—It’s hard to take your eyes off the view that stretches to the horizon, filling you with a profound sense of tranquility.

On the way back, we take another street on the western side. Between the houses and the narrow, steep streets, it’s impossible not to imagine what life was like here many years ago, when the Christians captured Monsaraz from the Moors. The atmosphere momentarily makes us forget we are in the 21st century, evoking a sense of mysticism as we walk through the village. But our journey is still long, so we return to the car to continue on.

We now head towards Mourão, descending from Monsaraz and joining the road from Reguengos, turning left at the junction. The road is excellent, one of the improvements made possible by the Alqueva dam. We cross the new bridge over the Guadiana River, now transformed into a vast lake, very different from the small river that once flowed beneath the old metal bridge. We arrive in Mourão and make our way to the castle.

Perched on a commanding and border-facing site, the Castle of Mourão has, over the centuries, faced numerous attacks by enemy forces, which led to several reconstructions and expansions. The castle features a medieval wall made of schist, marble, and granite, reinforced by six towers. Within the castle complex is the Church of Nossa Senhora das Candeias, built in the 17th century.

We leave Mourão and head toward Aldeia da Luz. This new village was built to house the residents of the old Luz and has an appearance that, in some ways, feels cinematic, with its very uniform and similar houses, a result of the way it was constructed. The village features a museum displaying images and remnants of the old settlement, which visitors can explore. But time has flown by, and hunger is setting in—so it’s time for lunch.

We continue to Aldeia da Estrela, a village that, with the creation of the Alqueva dam, has become a peninsula, surrounded by water on all sides except for the road that connects it to the mainland.

With our energy restored, it’s time to see the dam! We get back on the road, passing through Póvoa de São Miguel, and pause briefly to admire the parish church and some Moorish-style chimneys. Continuing toward Moura, we reach a junction—Moura to the left, the dam to the right—and after checking the time, we decide to visit Moura, just 4 km away.

In Moura, we visit the town garden, from where we can glimpse the massive wall of the Alqueva dam in the distance. It’s noticeable that water is abundant here, with several fountains scattered throughout the town, including the source of the famous Castelo water. Next to the garden stands the Church of São João Batista, and nearby is an entrance to the castle via Rua do Arco, which visitors can explore.

We then continue toward the dam. Upon arrival, we see that it is enormous, rising approximately 100 meters in height, impressive both in scale and in the vast amount of water it holds. This project, which remained on paper for decades, was almost a myth in the Alentejo—a symbol of future development, a dream that has finally become reality…

But the day is getting on, and we need to continue our journey. We then head to Amieira Marina, passing through the village of Alqueva, which gave its name to the dam, where we see the parish church painted in white and blue, typical colors of the Alentejo region.

Amieira Marina is the departure point for Alqueva cruises. It also offers houseboats for rent, which anyone can pilot even without a boating license—a unique way to stay in the region.

We get back on the road toward São Marcos do Campo, but along the way we stop for a few minutes to take in the fabulous view from the Monte Viewpoint. Upon arriving in São Marcos do Campo, we explore the village center, including its parish church, built in the 16th century.

Next, we pass through Campinho, a quiet village that now has an airstrip and a small dock, and we visit the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, located at one end of the village.

Finally, we return to Reguengos, tired but eager to explore more—perhaps another day.

Nuno Franco
Roteiro do Alqueva
2011