We leave Reguengos de Monsaraz in the morning, heading toward Alandroal. Along the way, after a few kilometers, we pass many scattered houses across the landscape, resembling small estates. These belong to the villages of Casas Novas de Mares, Pias, and Venda, creating a beautiful scenery not often seen in this part of the Alentejo.

A few kilometers further, we take a right turn toward Capelins. This small riverside village by the Alqueva reservoir is charming, with well-maintained houses. We visit the Church of Santo António in Capelins, located just outside the village, near the road that leads back to the main route toward Alandroal.

We return to the road and continue toward Terena. As we approach, its castle stands out against the Alentejo landscape. Terena has very ancient origins, with its first charter granted in the 13th century. The village played an important role in border defense, with its castle forming part of the Guadiana defensive line.

From Terena, we can catch a view of the Lucefecit Dam (shown in the next image).

From here, we continue our journey to Alandroal. Upon arriving near the village, we immediately spot its beautiful castle rising above the surrounding houses.

This settlement is very old, founded in 1298 by D. Lourenço Afonso, Master of Avis, and elevated to the status of a town in 1486 through a charter granted by D. João II. Interestingly, the name Alandroal comes from the abundance of oleanders that grow in the area, whose wood is used in local crafts.

We park in the village center, from where the town can easily be explored on foot. The castle is right in the heart of the village, and within it is the parish church. The whitewashed clock tower “watches over us” from above the walls and is worth photographing. In the center, we also find the village fountain.

Next, we stop for lunch. There are several options in the village center, including the well-known Restaurante A Maria, Adega dos Ramalhos, and A Chaminé, among others.

After the meal, we continue on to Juromenha.

Upon arrival, we pass through the village and head toward the fortress. Located beside the Guadiana River, the fortress sits in an elevated position, offering a breathtaking view. We can see the Guadiana River, whose waters from the Alqueva reservoir have overflowed its old course, the cultivated fields on the opposite bank, and a seemingly endless plain.

Next to the fortress, we find a viewpoint with a wooden fence and a few benches, where we can sit and take in the view—which we do without hesitation.

Next, we enter the fortress. Our first reaction, however, is one of sadness—the site is neglected, which is a shame, as it deserves restoration and some form of tourist, cultural, or other use. There were once talks of building a pousada here, but for now, we only see ruins, with just a few temporary repairs preventing its collapse.

[Update: The Juromenha Fortress was restored in 2024]

We come across a church and a few other buildings. As we take in the landscape, for a brief moment we imagine the past, when the fields on the other side of the Guadiana belonged to Juromenha… which brings to mind the enduring question of Olivença’s sovereignty, currently under Spanish administration and awaiting return since the Treaty of Vienna in 1815…

Next, we head into Spain. So close, yet seemingly far, as we have to cross the Guadiana further north via the Elvas–Olivença bridge. We first continue to Elvas and then follow the road toward Olivença.

Upon reaching the new bridge, we stop at the roadside, eager to see the old Ajuda Bridge. This bridge has been in ruins since 1709, having been destroyed by the Castilian army during the War of Spanish Succession.

We continue our journey toward Villareal. Just after the bridge, the GPS directs us onto a dirt road, but since we’re not driving a 4×4, we ignore the instructions and carry on to Olivença, where we then take the road toward Villareal.

Vila Real is a small village where we can visit the Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição and the riverside quay along the Guadiana, located directly opposite the fortress of Juromenha. After taking a few photos, we return to Olivença.

Olivença — shaped by a long history of Portuguese and Spanish rule — is a blend of both cultures. As we walk through its streets, we find several buildings with Manueline architecture and street name plaques displaying names in both Portuguese and Spanish.

We explore the town on foot. We visit the beautiful Church of Santa Maria Madalena, then continue to the keep, beside which are located the González Santana Ethnographic Museum and the Church of Santa Maria do Castelo.

Upon reaching the keep, we see that it is quite tall, and we are told there is no elevator—nor any stairs! We are a bit skeptical at first, but we are then informed that the ascent is made via ramps. So, we begin the climb.

Along the various ramps, “torches” at the end of each section illuminate the path, and occasionally a window to the outside lets in some natural light. The tower has several floors, with vast rooms that are now empty.

At the top, we realize the climb was well worth it. From above, we can see the entire town—a truly pleasant and rewarding view.

Next, we visit the museum, where various traditional trades are showcased, along with the tools and objects used at the time. We pass through the blacksmith’s workshop, the carpentry, the barbershop, the dentist’s office, the olive oil mill, and many, many more. The museum is very well organized and vast. We highly recommend a visit, as it gives a clear glimpse of what life in this region was like 100 years ago.

Leaving Olivença, we head to another riverside village along the Alqueva: Cheles. In Cheles, we visit the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Concepción and the Hermitage of Santo Cristo de la Paz. Nearby Cheles, there is an Alqueva river beach, but time is short, so we leave that visit for another occasion.

On our return to Portugal, we head toward Villanueva del Fresno, known in Portugal as the place where General Humberto Delgado was assassinated. The road between Cheles and Villareal is well-paved, but the high number of curves makes it tiring, even though it’s only about 20 kilometers.

Upon arriving in Villanueva, we take the road back to Portugal. The road is now excellent and straight, and we quickly reach the border at São Leonardo.

We can still see what remains of the old border post and, for a brief moment, remember when we used to stop here for our bags to be inspected after trips to Spain for shopping…

Back in Portugal, as we approach Mourão, we’re left with the feeling of a day well spent. This will surely be a delightful journey for anyone who has the opportunity to experience it.

Roteiro do Alqueva
2012